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CHIHUAHUA INFO, & WEIGHT CHART

We do not ship our pups they must be picked up buy the buyer at our home.

Once your puppy gets there with you, he/she will need to be in a playpen or
something where he/she doesn't become over-exerted and his/her blood sugar
drop out. He/She will need to be kept in a confined area for several months as
they are just so tiny and just a trip across the living room or kitchen floor can or
will totally exhaust them and their energy level.....dropping drastically just that
fast.
Playing should be minimal for several months like maybe only three 15 minute
playtimes out of the playpen per day until they are older....
He/She will need nutri-cal or a bit of syrup daily before bedtime, this keeps  the
blood sugar up and helps with calories he/she may need that they didn't get
throughout the day.... I will usually feed about 2 - 3 Tablespoons of soft dog
food as well.
He/She will need hard puppy  EUKANUBA TINY BITE SIZE, Royal Canian (Dry food), Purina Puppy Chow and
Puppy sm canned food  with them daily along  with fresh water that
has had Corn Syrup added to it to keep the blood sugar level up.....
Having one of these tiny little ones is a lot of work and takes a lot of time,
he/she will also not be able to be left alone until he/she is at least 6-9 months
old as once the blood sugar level drops you have a matter of minutes before
brain damage occurs and a coma sets in....so being there with him/her is VERY
IMPORTANT!!!
Once a puppy is down, you will need to first give him/her a 1 cc of straight corn
syrup then wait 10 minutes and give another 1 cc.... Keep him/her in a towel
while he/she is down until he/she comes around as their temperature drops
during this time also or place a plastic pop bottle with worm water in it in the towel too.
After he/she is up and walking again, they will immediately want water and lots
of it, BUT DON'T GIVE THEM ANY for at least 1 hour as that will dilute the
sugar and it will drop out again. After he/she is up again, offer some canned
baby food. Chicken or Turkey (bland) is the best and then after he/she eats, let
him/her rest.
Check on them every 2 hours at least to be sure they are ok.
Give the nutri-cal before bedtime to get him/her through the night...
IF ever you feel he/she is having an episode that warrants the vet's assistance,
then PLEASE give the 1 cc karo on the way out the door, this could be the
difference of him LIVING and DYING!!! Sometimes they are down so far that they
will need IV Fluids from your vet..But the karo is important to give until a Vet can
be seen..
PLEASE DON'T BE AFRAID by what I have written, this is just
things that you need to be informed of and prepared for in the
case of it happening. It doesn't happen in all the tiny ones but is
better to be SAFE than sorry.
 
Hypoglycemia: This condition is caused by low blood sugar, It occurs mainly in
Toy and small breeds such as Tea Cups puppies between 6 and 12 weeks of
age also in dams that are nursing. Often it is precipitated by stress. The first
signs are weakness or depression lack or puppy will just sleep and not want to
eat. This can occur if puppy has missed meals. This is followed by muscular
weakness, tremors (especially in the facial muscles) and later, convulsions,
coma and death. This entire sequence is not always seen and puppy will
appear to be just tired and sleep. The puppy may appear to be depressed, or
he may be weak wobbly and jerky or he may be found in a coma.
Hypoglycemia can occur without warning when a puppy is placed in a new
home, or while being shipped. It might appear after a puppy misses a meal,
becomes chilled, becomes exhausted from too much playing, or has a digestive
upset. Upsets place an added strain on the energy reserves of the liver and
bring on symptoms if the puppy is susceptible. Puppies who are fed human
food rather than a quality puppy food are more likely to develop hypoglycemia.
Their diet is deficient in certain ingredients needed to sustain the liver. Puppies
may also just forget to eat! It is important to make sure your puppy is eating
three meat a day. Kibble or dry food and water should be placed where puppy
can get to it's food at all times. Check to see if puppy has eaten it's food if
puppy has not eaten then you need to give puppy his food by hand and make
sure puppy eats. Baby food is a good meal to give puppy so is chicken and
rice. If your puppy does not want to eat seek medial attention immediately and
give Karo Syrup immediately to puppy.
Toy and small breeds of puppies have limited body energy reserves and an
immature mechanism for breaking down large sugar complexes into smaller,
more useable, short chain sugars. They also have a higher metabolic demand
for sugar. Puppies lack the feedback mechanism between the blood and the
liver. In the puppy, when the blood glucose levels fall below a certain point the
liver will not start to increase conversion of food to to useable blood sugar like
it would in an adult dog.
Hypoglycemia treatment is directed at restoring blood levels of glucose. Begin
at once prolonged or repeated attacks can cause permanent damage to the
brain. If the puppy is awake give him Karo Syrup, honey, or sugar in water by
mouth. He will begin to improve in 30 minutes. When he is unconscious, he will
have to be given a Dextrose solution intravenously. It may be necessary to
treat for swelling of the brain. A veterinarian should be called at once. Prevent
recurrent attacks by feeding high quality kibble diet, and add to it syrup, sugar
or honey. See that the puppy eats and drinks regularly. Don't assume he is
eating and drinking regularly. Food and water must be available at all times

 

 
Transient Juvenile Hypoglycemia

Please print this part out to keep on hand,in case you
need to help your puppy through a (Sugar Drop).
Chihuahuas are a hearty little breed, however they sometimes
require extra care.
A toy breed can have a (Sugar Drop).
This is called Hypoglycemia.
This can be brought on by stress,or the missing of a meal,
or too much play.
If your puppy seem's weak or non responsive, use a dropper
to give it some light karo syrup, honey or sugar.
If you put it under the tongue it goes into the bloodstream
faster.
Nutrical, or Nutristat is always good to have on hand
with these puppies.
This product can be bought at any pet superstore.
You can give your pet a tiny amount, three times a day
to help increase their appetite.
You should purchase the following before the arrival of your
new little one.
Keep a small syringe on hand, you will also want to make sure
you have these items also.
Start with 3cc of karo syrup, after ten minutes offer your
puppy about a tablespoon of baby food.
If the puppy want eat force just a little with the syringe,
wait about fifeteen minutes, offer it more food,
if it still will not eat on its own, seek
medical attention for your puppy.
For the first week or so, don't fill up the food bowl,
put only a small amount at a time.
This way you will be able to determine just how much food it is eating.
They need to eat several times a day.
 
Low Blood Sugar
 
Please print this part out to keep on hand,in case you
need to help your puppy through a (Sugar Drop).
Chihuahuas are a hearty little breed, however they sometimes
require extra care.
A toy breed can have a (Sugar Drop).
This is called Hypoglycemia.
This can be brought on by stress,or the missing of a meal,
or too much play.
If your puppy seem's weak or non responsive, use a dropper
to give it some light karo syrup, honey or sugar.
If you put it under the tongue it goes into the bloodstream
faster.
Nutrical, or Nutristat is always good to have on hand
with these puppies.
This product can be bought at any pet superstore.
You can give your pet a tiny amount, three times a day
to help increase their appetite.
You should purchase the following before the arrival of your
new little one.
Keep a small syringe on hand, you will also want to make sure
you have these items also.
Start with 3cc of karo syrup, after ten minutes offer your
puppy about a tablespoon of baby food.
If the puppy want eat force just a little with the syringe,
wait about fifeteen minutes, offer it more food,
if it still will not eat on its own, seek
medical attention for your puppy.
For the first week or so, don't fill up the food bowl,
put only a small amount at a time.
This way you will be able to determine just how much food it is eating.
They need to eat several times a day.

T-CUP CHIHUAHUA MYTH
 
Many people often ask if we raise the "Tea Cup Chihuahua." We often get Chihuahua babies that stay exceptionally small, but please pay special attention to the title CHIHUAHUA TEACUP MYTHS found here.
The Chihuahua Club of America has done an excellent job of explaining about this misconception. Chihuahuas are apart of the TOY BREED and are indeed the smallest toy breed in the world. Sometimes they never exceed 2 to 3 pounds at adulthood, but be assured there is in no way, nor has there ever been a Chihuahua registered as anything other than simply a Chihuahua, regardless of their weight. Any Chihuahua Breeder who will tell a perspective buyer any other wise is unfortunately misleading them and buyers should be aware of this.
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The Chihuahua Is A Chihuahua
The official "Chihuahua description"describes the Chihuahua as a small dog that comes in two varieties or coat types. The difference in coat type (the Long Coat or the Smooth Coat) is the only official description used to identify a difference within this breed. Our Standard does not categorize the Chihuahua by size.
For the purpose of showing and record keeping, the American Kennel Club includes the Chihuahua (along with 19 other breeds)in the Toy Group. Therefore, irrespective of their weight or physical stature, ALL Chihuahuas registered with A.K.C. are considered to be a toy breed of dog. 
As with all living things, there will be a size variance between individual dogs within this breed. Look within the human family - brothers and sisters will differ in height and in weight, as well as other physical attributes. They are described as humans, male or female, and there is seldom if ever a need to break the description down further. The same holds true in regard to the Chihuahua; they are Chihuahua-Long Coat/Smooth Coat, Male/Female.

 
 
Breeding Your Merle Chihuahua
Merle Chihuahuas are some of the most beatiful chis out there today, and as a result, many people are now breeding for this color to supply the demand.
If you are thinking about breeding merles, you need know that the merling pattern is a dominat gene, this means that one parent MUST be merle for the pups to merle(There is what are known as a phantom merles, meaning that the puppy was a merle, but the spots faded, but this only happens in fawn pups.) So don't buy a puppy from a breeder that tells you that because the mother or father was a merle, that the puppy is carrying the merling gene and can have merle puppies. Dogs carry recessive genes, like a black dog that can have chocolate pups. Merling is a dominate gene, therefore it must be seen in the dog for the pups to have it.
Okay, so you got a merle and are ready to breed. NEVER NEVER NEVER breed two merles together!!! THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! The genetic mutations that result from this can range from blindess to pups being born with no eyes, hearing problems and the double merle pups are almost always sterile. Being a merle breeder, it is best if you can breed your merle to darker colors, such as black, blues, chocolates or lilacs. This keeps the colors very viberant, and reduces the chances of having phantom merles.
Also, unless you are a very experienced breeder, do not breed a merle to a brindle, as this can sometimes make the markings hard to tell if the offspring is a merle or a brindle.
If you decide to breed merles, check the pups at birth for the spots, and take pics to document them, this way you can be sure to mark them correctly on their paperwork.
So would it be safe to breed a blue merle dog to a blue dog? You can safely breed a blue merle to a blue as long as the nose leather of the merle dog is BLACK!! If the nose leather is blue you really have a dilute blue merle and you could risk the skin problems as if you bred a blue to a blue.

POTTY TRAINING
 
How to train your puppy to use the litter box
I get a lot of questions about litter training so I wanted to take a few minutes to explain the in's and outs of getting your pooch accustomed to the litter box.  I have had great success with litter box training and HIGHLY recommend it to people who own toy breed dogs, especially the very small such as Chihuahuas and Yorkies as their little bladders are not as capable as larger dogs, even those over 10#.
What Kind of Litter?
Choice of litter is VERY important.  DO NOT use cat litter for training you puppy!!!  I have heard of people doing this and it is BAD.  Cat litter can get stuck in their pads and they can lick it off their coat causing expensive and harmful gastro-intestinal complications.  I USE ONLY SECOND NATURE LITTER FOR DOGS. It is in an orange bag and can be purchased at any fine petstore.  I shop at Pet Supplies Plus, but I am certain it is available at Petco and PetSmart as well.  If you don't see it at your pet store, ASK.  They might carry it for you or tell you somewhere that does.

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Molera Statement
Historically, the Chihuahua developed in Mexico and the United States has displayed a "soft spot" on the top of the head. In the Chihuahua this spot, or fontanel, is known as a MOLERA; and is the same as that found in human babies. In the past, this molera was accepted as a mark of purity in the breed, and it is still mentioned in most Chihuahua breed standards the world over.
It is important to note that while many Chihuahua's are born without the molera, there are probably just as many born with one and its presence is nothing to become alarmed over.
As shown in the illustration below, the molera in a Chihuahua will occur on the top of the head and may vary in shape and size when present.
 
 
 
Unfortunately, many lay people and some veterinarians not familiar with the Chihuahua have tried to link the mere presence of a molera with the condition known as hydrocephalus. This has caused many new-comers to the breed serious concern and undue worry. The truth is that a domed head with a molera present does not predispose the Chihuahua to this condition. Along with the observations of devoted breeders over the years, there is adequate medical evidence to support this statement.
In "Diseases of the Brain" 1989, Green & Braund stated that many clinically normal toy breeds may have open fontanels without associated hydrocephalus.
Drs. Walker and Rivers, Veterinarians at the University of Minnesota concluded that there did not appear to be any relationship between the presence or size of a fontanel and the condition of hydrocephalus.
Dr. Alexander de Lahunta of Cornell University in New York, one of the top neurologists in this country, stated that it would be wrong to conclude that any opening is abnormal.
While it would be impossible to list all the medical documentation here on this page, these few included here are perfectly clear; the presence of a molera does not mean the Chihuahua has a medical problem.
The Chihuahua is a little dog! They belong in the house, at their owner's side, receiving all the love they deserve to receive. With or without a molera, the healthy Chihuahua that is loved and given proper veterinary care will live well into its teens as an irresistible member of the family.  (this was found on Chihuahua club of America site)

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Male Or Female What Is Best ??

Observations
Many people believe that female dogs make better pets...female preference seems to be ingrained in
these people. Most calls for pet dogs have people wanting a 'sweet girl'. They don't think females
display alpha behaviors like 'marking' and/or 'humping'. They believe that they are more docile and
attentive and do not participate in fighting over dominance. Well folks, this is not true and they don't call
them a 'bitch' for nothing!
In the dog pack makeup, females usually rule the roost, determine pecking order, and who compete to
maintain and/or alter that order. The females are, as a result, more independent, stubborn, and
territorial than their male counterparts. The females are much more intent upon exercising their
dominance by participating in alpha behaviors such as 'humping'. There IS a reason people utilize the
technical dog term of 'bitch' in a negative way-and it refers directly to the behaviors exhibited by the
females of the dog world. Most fights will usually break out between 2 females. Males, on the other
hand, are usually more affectionate, exuberant, attentive, and more demanding of attention. They are
very attached to their people. They also tend to be more steadfast, reliable, and less moody. They are
more outgoing, more accepting of other pets, and take quicker to children. Most boys are easily
motivated by food (how true!!) and praise, and so eager to please that training is easy. However, males
can be more easily distracted during training, as males like to play so often. And no matter what age, he
is more likely to act silly and more puppy-like, always wanting to play games. Boys are fun loving until
the day they die. Females tend to be more reserved or dignified as they age. Witness the human
equivalent of the twinkling eyed Grandpa still playing catch at age 70, while Grandma quietly observes
from the porch.
Boys do get bigger than girls, but only by an average of 1-2 inches and 3-5 pounds in the Cocker. In the
Toy Poodle a variety of sizes can be found regardless of sex. There are a lot of self claimed 'Miniatures'
in any breed out there, but those Breeders are not breeding to the standard as it is written for each
breed. The difference between sizes and sexes is minimal, if bred correctly, and for improving the breed
according to the standard.
Neutered males rarely exhibit secondary sexual behavior such as 'humping', or 'marking' and lifting of
legs. Once the testosterone levels recede after neutering, most of these behaviors (if they ever existed)
will disappear. Boys who were neutered early (by 5 months of age) usually don't ever raise their leg to
urinate.
And while the female will usually come to you for attention, when waiting for your attention and near at
hand. Females are usually less distracted during training, as she is more eager to get it over with, and
get back to her comfy spot on the couch. The female is less likely to wage a dominance battle with YOU,
but she can be cunning and resourceful in getting her own way. She is much more prone to mood
swings. One day she may be sweet and affectionate-the next day reserved and withdrawn or even
grumpy. The female also has periods of being 'in heat' unless she is spayed. Seasonal heats can be a
month long nightmare-not just for the female, but you and every male dog in the neighborhood. If you
are not breeding, you'd be best off to have her spayed. Since during this time she can leave a bloody
discharge on carpets, couches, or anywhere she goes. She will be particularly moody and emotional
during this time. A walk outside during this period can become hazardous if male dogs are in the
vicinity, and she will leave a 'scent' for wandering intact males to follow right to your yard, where they will
hang out, and 'wait' for days.
Before deciding on male or female, give consideration to any other dogs that may be in or around your
home.

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